Togo gives visa on arrival, 7 days, for 10,000cfa. The visa can be later extended in Lomé. I had to fill up a form and the main problem was telephone number in Togo that I had to provide. I copied two phone numbers of My Diana Guesthouse from The Rough Guide to West Africa and the immigration officer said they were not from Lomé. Lomé, the capital of Togo is right in the border. The town on the other side (Ghana) is called Aflao.
I did provide a third number, from Lonely Planet to West Africa and the woman accepted it.
After I paid the so called health post took less than a minute.
My main problem with Togo is that the visa is not given away on all border crossings, only on some. And I struggled to find a list of where one can cross to Togo and get visa. Apparently the border near Kpalimé gives visas.
But in 2010 I left Ghana via a small border crossing around Wli waterfalls and after a few kilometres through the bush when I entered the Togolese village I was turned away – no visa on arrival there. The Ghanaians let me back in because I had multiple entry visa, I wonder what they’d do this time, when I have a single entry.
Update Dec 2022:
Single visa on the Aflao-Lomé border crossing now costs 25kCFA but is valid now for 15 days and as far as I understood it is possible to get the extension in Lomé.
There is also multiple visa, also valid for 15 days, that costs 35kCFA.
Moneychangers on the streets of Aflao are a scam, however there is a Forex shop on the right side of the street where you can change your money in peace (and safety). Cedi had a weak exchange rate of 18GHS for 1000CFA, so it’s better to change euros to CFA for 660CFA to 1 EUR. At least get enough money to pay for your visa!
Coming back to Maman 