Taxi to PK8 I called for 1000cfa, but not before I had my baguette with salad and coffee, two coffees. PK8 sounds like kilometre 8, away from the city. The taxi driver told me I should watch out for price hikes for a white man and told me I should not pay more than 5000cfa.The small bus that was parked on the roadside told me to pay 7000cfa. Because there seemed to be some competition between various busses parked around I even wanted to search around, 7000cfa for 4 hour journey was a bit much, and in a bus? Yet a passenger called out to me to get in and I asked for the price and indeed it was 7000. Later it turned out transport prices were rising when going further South.We waited a bit to fill up the bus, 4 people in a row. The bus in fact was going further to Mouila. Wow. Some planning of itineraries finally in place.The first 100km was a horror but it was expected as I already witnessed it coming to Libreville from Bitam. Once we reached Bifoun the road was smooth and empty. No troublesome checkpoints.I got off in Quartier Isaac in Lambaréné, where the market is. The hotel I wanted to take according to both Bradt Guide and Petit Futé guide – yes, I bought an ebook in French – Bananes, unfortunately is shut down. I asked around I was directed to motel Liroko.The motel was a typical dark and gloomy room with shower and toilet, 10k with fan, 15k with AC, the receptionist who showed me the rooms said there was water. Fine.It was already 4pm so all I could do is walk around. I could visit the Schweitzer Hospital the next day. I walked all the way to the bridge on river Ogooué. A grand river it is. I crossed the bridge and walked to where some boats were moored. The Bradt Guide claims it’s possible to take a boat trip on the river and to the nearby lakes but they seem expensive and noone approached me (weird!) so I didn’t bother much.
I
came back to the market, where too some boats were docking. There were some bushmeat restaurants. One of them even listed pangolin (!) but when I asked what’s available the woman didn’t even mention the monkey, only gazelle and wild boar and a creature called chat-huant. Chat huant in French is a kind of owl but the woman was adamant it’s a cat. It took me a while to search for it but I did find it and it’s a catish creature indeed. Nandinia Binotata. 
I only had Guinness in the restaurant. I had taken a tcheboudjen rice for 1200cfa in a chop joint before and I was full.There were groundnuts in a bottle but for a whopping price of 2500cfa. Oufff.I came back to my motel only to to discover there was no water in the shower. The receptionist asked me if it disturbed me if she brought me a bucket of water. Oh no, I am tired of buckets yes it would disturb me. She didn’t know what to do, I didn’t know what to do, she offered giving me money back and I could move to another motel, she even pointed to one, Motel Obama next door.Motel Obama only had rooms with AC, 15k, no thanks. I walked to another motel, Paquita 2, which was 10k with a fan and it did have water in the shower. I changed the motel. Interesting how I got spoilt with running water.I did a bit of buvette crawl in the evening, as all tables outside were occupied. I had a roasted bar with manioc but it wasn’t nice. It just didn’t have any taste, 2000cfa.The drinking joints closed at around 10pm, I went deeper into the market where there was a booth playing music from a laptop and the tables outside were full of people and both beer and palm wine bottles. They too were soon closing and they were out of beers except something called vino-cola and some barely chilled cans of beers for 1000cfa. I took one and returned to my motel.
Libreville to Lambaréné
Coming back to Maman 