Two days in Libreville

In my comfortable bed with my very comfortable pillows and fresh crispy linen I slept very well. First stop: du café. I had three cups. 300cfa each. I asked where to get the coffee that is the not ground. The men told me to go to ancien Sobraga (later I found out Sobraga stands for […]

Days in Kribi

The two days I spent in Kribi were lazy. There was a stand where I had my avocado salad in the morning, 700cfa. Café Abou was closed in the morning and Abou himself told me it’s because of Ramadan. I almost forgot. He still made me the 100cfa coffee. The next day however he said […]

Douala to Kribi

Kribi is one place in Cameroon where you can experience beaches. The other place is Limbe & Idenao under Mt Cameroon – these are even more picturesque with the mountain backdrop and dark lava beaches – but at the moment I think these places are no-go due to the current situation in English part of […]

Monrovia to Buchanan: no beach to camp

Lonely Planet lists 5 “highlights” of Liberia: 1. Robertsport – surfing 2. Monrovia – capital 3. Buchanan – camping on the beach and relaxing at the port 4. Sapo National Park – pygmy hippos 5. Harper – nice town to be in. Of all those places, I’ve been to Monrovia already, Robertsport charges crazy money […]

Friday in Freetown: no more rainy days

Morning became a routine already. Out by just before 11am, chatted with the tourism men who are here again. Breakfast a stew green with rice at Jeska Mac, off on a moto to Nigerian Embassy. As I walked in I saw two young men, possibly Nigerians, entering the compound and snapping photos all around. Photos […]

Wednesday in Freetown: beach no. 2

I stayed in bed as long as I could – till about 10am. I had manioc leaves and rice in Jeska Mac for breakfast, 12000le and a Guinness for 10000le. The breakfast was more like brunch, just before noon. I gave my clothes out to be washed. Towel – the so-called tourist towels are waste […]

Bo to Freetown: sorry we’re full

The caretaker of my guesthouse in Bo said there are two government busses going to Freetown in the morning: at 5am and at 8am. If I miss them, there are other vehicles though. Bradt Guide says government busses are the best mode of transport because they’re the cheapest, fastest (!) and they have a beautiful […]

Varela: ngoni music

Yes, I’m still in Varela. I didn’t plan to be still in Varela. I woke up early-ish, at 7am, when the sun rises. Plan was to get to Bissau during the day. I assumed I would catch one of the toca toca that are coming here from São Domingos. I mean I was on one […]

Varela: water music

As every day I wanted to set off early. Today I even got up at 7am. As every day I left the accommodation at 10am. It looked like it would be a long wait but it wasn’t. I checked in the toca toca going to Varela. I had a demi-baguette with two-egg-omelette in one of […]

Humans of Saint Louis

It’s been a chilly windy morning. My landlady offered me coffee on the rooftop. Of course I agreed! What I got was a small sachet of instant coffee but at least it wasn’t Nescafé. The auberge I stay in has quite a nice view on the canal and the neighbouring island. I went out in […]