Chinguetti to Nouakchott: where sand eats your soul

Noaukchott is full of sand. Chinguetti in the desert was obviously full of sand. The train to Choum was full of sand. The road from Atar to Nouakchott was full of sand, at times I was wondering what the driver can see in front of us, there was only a milky creamy nothingness ahead. A […]

Laayoune to Dakhla: South South

My Rough Guide to Morocco mentions 4 places to see in Western Sahara: Tarfaya, Laayoune, Smara and Dakhla. There isn’t much to see in either of towns yet the splendid desolation is tempting. I was thinking to go to each town but the transport options are poor: Laayoune to Tarfaya looks like there are only […]

Sahara begins

I noticed it around 6am, where we stopped for morning tea. Silver ocean under full moon. Sand. A truck on the side of the road. The plants were gone. We were moving among nothingness, sand, gravel, all gray and silent. Then at 8am a police checkpoint. Sir, what’s your nationality? What’s your profession? Where are […]

It’s raining in heaven

Writing to you at 5am, as we were told to change the bus in Tan Tan. Tan Tan I always thought is capital of Western Sahara but we’re still way off the “border”. It’s been a rainy day. Rainy and cold, felt like Poland. +10 degrees, gray, cloudy, miserable. Lots of mint tea consumed. I […]

Bienvenue à Marrakech

Morocco is long, if you include Western Sahara. There will be a lot of buslife on this trip, especially going South along the coast. I had the first such trip and during the day. A CTM bus from Tangier to Morocco. There are only 2 CTM busses a day and they cost 230Dh each and […]