Varela: water music

As every day I wanted to set off early. Today I even got up at 7am. As every day I left the accommodation at 10am. It looked like it would be a long wait but it wasn’t. I checked in the toca toca going to Varela. I had a demi-baguette with two-egg-omelette in one of […]

Laayoune to Dakhla: South South

My Rough Guide to Morocco mentions 4 places to see in Western Sahara: Tarfaya, Laayoune, Smara and Dakhla. There isn’t much to see in either of towns yet the splendid desolation is tempting. I was thinking to go to each town but the transport options are poor: Laayoune to Tarfaya looks like there are only […]

Sahara begins

I noticed it around 6am, where we stopped for morning tea. Silver ocean under full moon. Sand. A truck on the side of the road. The plants were gone. We were moving among nothingness, sand, gravel, all gray and silent. Then at 8am a police checkpoint. Sir, what’s your nationality? What’s your profession? Where are […]