Koundara to Dalaba: coffeeland

I didn’t sleep very well in Hotel Armand in Koundara. The fact that the hotel was running the bar and that the power went on until 2am, and the window of my room was out onto the front, above the bar, meant the music – however nice it was at times – didn’t allow me […]

Bafatá to Koundara: no sight of Guinness

The electricity in my Bafatá room went off around 5:30am and I almost immediately woke up. It does get quite cool at night, the temperature drops 20 degrees from +40 to +20 yet it’s still hot. I think this may be due to to house walls retaining the heat. Shower water on the other hand […]

Buba to Bafatá: everything lasts

I was worried that I should have gone all the way to Republic of Guinea today. Buba to Bafatá is 135km, 2 hours and here I was at the bus junction, before 9am. Bafatá is recommended by The Rough Guide to West Africa AD2008 as one of Guinea Bissau highlights. Pretty town with Portuguese red-roofed […]

Bolama to Buba: long road to the bars

I had my simple breakfast at about 7:20am and unfortunately at this time baguettes in Bolama are not yet ready, mine was a yesterday’s stale. I was hearing a hum coming from the jetty and I even thought it could be the pirogue but I didn’t worry much. People saying the transport is at 8am […]

Long lazy hours in Bolama

I stayed two nights in Bolama. I was told that the next truck back towards the junction village of Nova Sintra (from where you can turn left towards Enxudé and ferry to Bissau or continue straight towards Funacunda and Buba and the world) will leave on Saturday at 8-9am. Even though you can see the […]

Bissau to Bolama: dusty bush roads

This week Consulmar Guine ferry ran Monday to Thursday (they publish the schedule every week) at 8am. The ferry leaves from the port of Bissau. I arrived at the port around 7:45, there were already people at the dock. The day before when I asked at the ticket office what time I should be at […]

Visa no. 6: Guinea in Bissau

The bus came at 3:02am. The previous day I spoke to someone who looked like a driver of a very good-looking blue van. What appeared in front of me didn’t look anything like it. Only one front light was on, there were no rear lights. I was packed into the front seat with one other […]

Varela: water music

As every day I wanted to set off early. Today I even got up at 7am. As every day I left the accommodation at 10am. It looked like it would be a long wait but it wasn’t. I checked in the toca toca going to Varela. I had a demi-baguette with two-egg-omelette in one of […]

São Domingos: bazooka on election day

Yesterday we had an election day. The legislative (i.e. I understand parliamentary) elections that were due to be held in November 2018 but were postponed till now. Guinea Bissau is only getting at peace with itself now. I found about it from my Spanish cycler friend David who texted me from the Senegalese border informing […]

Janjanbureh to Zinguichor: moving with goats

It’s been a transport day. The Baobab Lodge didn’t let me sleep. People live in that compound and they didn’t care for one passing guest. Music till 11pm, then some hammer sounds at midnight, then at 1:23am heavy stuff being moved from side to side, then more conversation. Roosters wake up at 7am at that […]